Nift Chennai works with the Kozhikode cluster in kerala which deals predominantly with two crafts which are associated with this area, since centuries, handloom weaving and Uru wooden boats

v     FOR HANDLOOM –The three taluks of of Kozhikode namely Vadakara, Koilandy and Kozhikode – covering 30 working cooperative societies both in primary and industrial type

v    FOR HANDICRAFTS- Beypore  with artisans engaged in making wooden models of traditional boats known as Uru

Beneficiaries:

v     About 2000 weavers in handlooms as direct beneficiaries 

v     30 artisans in `uru`making

The Design studio is located at the NIFT Chennai center, it will function  ,the RDEC is situated at west hill Calicut and will serve as a liaison office between the cluster and the center and will also function as a training center, for the artisans

SRTSC is set up at Thikkodi in Payyoli ,which will function as a common facility center ,it planned to set up a fully functional , sample weaving center with ,both desk looms and also the frame looms ,and also a fully functional dyeing and printing unit which will serves a common facility center to all the sub clusters and artisans who would like to avail this facility

And existing societies

The sub clusters have been identified based on the geographical location

Nift Chennai ,has already started its activities with the cluster ,and has  organized two workshops ,one at the design studio ,and one at the cluster level for product development

A workshop at the SRTSC is now in progress, and a workshop for the Uru craft is scheduled  before end of march at he Design studio ,Product development is already under progress ,where the handloom fabrics are used to create trendy ,innovative products .

 BRIEF ON THE CRAFT-HANDLOOM

 “The plan of the Master Weaver”-----------unknown author 

Our lives are but fine weaving,

That “God” and we prepare,

Each life becomes a fabric planned

And fashioned in “His” care.

We may not always see just how

The weaving intertwines,

But we must trust the Masters hand

And follow “ His “ Design

The coastal district of Calicut, traditionally known as Kozhikode is located in the northern part of kerala. The Malayalam term Kozhikode means, fortified Palace, the  Calico is derived form the name Calicut.

The British, the Portuguese and the French, have traded with this small coastal town since the 15^th century, one of the main products ,was the cotton ,handloom fabrics that this little town produced. During the 19^th century  the British  nourished the handloom industry ,and the weavers ,learned new techniques from them ,Weaving factories ,were set up in calicut ,the word calico derives from the name of the town Calicut ,as this fabric was unique to this area ,and was renowned for its fineness of yarns ,the fabrics ,were normally worn by the royalty 

The main communities engaged in this craft are Saliyas and devangas. One thing in common that the crafts of kerala have is that they have been perfected through the dedicated hands of the crafts men

Before the introduction of mechanized means of spinning in the early 19^th century , Indian cottons were hand spun, and hand woven, it was called Khadi,Fabrics that use mill mill-spun yarn but which are hand woven are known as handloom 

Handlooms uniquely retain the ability to customize and improvise small scale fabrics, such as furnishings, like rugs, mats etc and at the same time can also do extremely fine light weight fabrics .thus the customer’s tastes, their originality and individual fabric design is retained and not mass produced 

Nift Chennai, works with the Kozhikode cluster, with weavers from the districts of Quilandy, Vadakkara and Kozhikodethat of the gulf countries, such as kuwait and Oman, where these are exported to in large quantity

WRITE UP ON URU BOATS

 Uru or dhow as it is popularly called is being manufactures in India for centuries .it is recognized world over .but none of the recognition or acknowledgement falls for India or kerala or the small village of Beypore where it is being done since ages, the craft is being recognized as that of the gulf countries, such as Kuwait and Oman, where these are exported to in large quantities.

The uru was traditionally an Arabian vessel/ship used by Arab traders, The early URU were gigantic vessels created meticulously by nailing together well planed planks of timber, with a team of fifty men taking at least four years to complete a vessel.

The show piece uru of today, originated from scale models of larger vessels serving as samples of the models, gradually these samples gained recognition as show items because of their intricate aesthetics. The Uru is also known as PAYUMARA KAPPAL, since it sails according to the direction of the wind.

The different kinds of uru are The BAGGARAH, Al BADAN, SOHAR, THE SHU’I, SNV SHABAB OMAN, SWEN Al SAMBUQ, etc

The primary material used is timber, which is abundant in this coastal village; the main wood is Teak Wood.

There is a need to innovate the designs  and probably ,give it an Indian characteristic, and aesthetics ,so that it is appealing to a wider international ,as well as domestic market .and make this craft also be associated with indian soil.

Crafts undertaken-

 Kozhikode cluster has mainly two crafts –Handloom  textiles

                                                                 - Uru wooden boats

Geographical representation

List of workshops –Kozhikode cluster has organized two workshops

      WORKSHOP 1

1)      at nift center with 14 artisans for a period of 10 days

2)      Workshop-1 –Training and  interactive workshop with 14 master weavers from 14 different weaver societies

3)       lectures on* design process to realization

                     *Ecological impact of dyeing

                     * Forecasting for design

                     *Understanding of colors

                     *Handloom weaving and     technological advancements

 Workshop 2

Diversification of handloom textiles to innovative products

   *Exploration in terms of design and materials, weaves and yarns

     (fine jute yarns, banana fibre,leather,novelty yarns, and accessories ,beads, sequins etc)

   *Innovation of regular handloom products to upgrade to a niche market

   *trips and visits to traditional weaving centers, up market stores &Handloom innovation fair

 •         Design development workshop conducted with 3 weavers societies

•         Designs developed at the design studio ,with forecast inputs and color stories were given to the artisans ,where they produced by the artisans

•         15 artisans  were involved, about 40 products were created

•         New developments were displayed and put for sale at the AOL international conference.

 •         The master weavers who attended the workshop were given a briefing on the exhibitions and art of living fair where their products would be displayed.

•         They were given the color story and designs developed at the design studio

•         The artisans developed these fabrics enthusiastically  in a very short period of time which were later converted in to products at the design studio

  Wokshop  3

At the SRTSC –Skill upgradation workshop  in progress now

RDEC

  RDEC located at SIDCO building West hill ,Calicut ,inauguration scheduled for June2006,due to elections in kerala in may

The Rdec has been functional since January,

 The Infrastructure is not in place yet

Activities of RDEC –

•   awareness meeting conducted in the handloom cluster with the DIC in each block head like Koilandy ,Vadakkara ,Kozhikode

• Discussions with bank heads for financial support for the cl

•  Awareness workshop held with Uru Boats artisans with DRDA in early November

•  Scheduled workshops and training programs on dyeing , printing for handlooms and design intervention in URU in 2nd and 3rd week of March.

• Mobilizing actively the involvement of the handloom weavers societies for the sourcing of the materials for IFFTEX and AOL exhibitions.

•  Workshop in progress with the artisans from 15^th march

• At the Rdec ,a small stitching unit is planned out as there is no conversion of product facility available in kozhikode

SRTSC –

  Location for the SRTSC has  been identified –Thikkodi in Payyoli

  Basic infrastructure is yet to be in place

  The technical person at the SRTSC has been appointed- and involved in the planning and organizing of the scheduled workshops to be held in the cluster.

 Conducted base line survey of 2000 artisans

 Identification of the nodal agency for the smooth conduct of the business activities of the cluster- handloom and handicrafts.

The SRTSC will be a common facility center ,we plan to create a good sampling unit as well as a dyeing unit at this place ,where artisans of all societies can avail this facility